Pausing for a period of time can let the oil separate and will result in ineffective application rates (too watery) or plant damage (too oily). Keep the container well-agitated as you spray.(Examples include varieties of hosta, juniper, spruce, Arizona cypress, fothergilla, and eucalyptus.) Avoid use on blue- or gray-colored foliage as the oil will remove the leaf wax that creates these colors. On plants for which you are uncertain of oil tolerance, test a small area first and watch for signs of phytotoxicity over the following one or two days. For example, horticultural oil is not compatible with sulfur or some formulations of copper, components of some fungicides. Do not combine with other pesticide applications unless the product label specifically permits it.Do not spray open blossoms to protect pollinators.Do not treat drought-stressed plants - irrigate their root zones and give them several hours or days to rehydrate first.This also ensures insects are using enough oxygen to be impacted by oil’s suffocating effects. In cool weather, make sure temperatures during application are 50-60° F or above for several consecutive days (with nightly lows above freezing) to avoid phytotoxicity and so the oil maintains the proper viscosity.If sprays are needed during summer, applications can be made in the cooler morning or evening hours. Do not apply during temperatures above 85° F because the phytotoxicity risk is high.While plant-safe under the right conditions, horticultural oil can cause phytotoxicity (plant tissue damage, especially on foliage) if applied during high heat or when evaporation is reduced due to cloudy, rainy, or very humid weather. For use as a fungicide, coat all upper leaf surfaces. When spraying bark, contacting the leaves is unavoidable, so heed temperature and other precautions below. When used as an insecticide, coat all bark or leaf surfaces (upper and lower). repels – feeding and egg-laying deterrent, altering leaf surface characteristics and leaf “taste”.Mode of action : multiple impacts, including synthetic or organic, depending on formulation.Also, sometimes for the suppression of some fungi (powdery mildew, rust, sooty mold). Generally, labeled for pest mites, thrips, whiteflies, scale (soft and armored), plant bugs, lace bugs, caterpillars (webworms, codling moth, armyworm, hornworm, leafrollers, etc.), and other soft-bodied insects (aphids, adelgids, psyllids, sawfly larvae, leaf beetle larvae, and leafminers). fish-derived oil (often combined with a plant-based oil and may be included only as part of the inert ingredients)ĭetails may vary with the formulation.plant-derived oil (soybean, cottonseed, rosemary, neem, etc.) most neem-based horticultural oils will be listed as “clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil” and will lack azadirachtin.mineral oil (or paraffinic oil commonly with a footnote of “contains petroleum distillates”).Check the label for plants with known intolerance for oil sprays.The latter option is simpler to use but will be more expensive. It's possible to dilute a bottle of concentrate and apply with a sprayer or use ready-to-spray formulations.This helps avoid harm to beneficial insects and other organisms. Even so, it has a very limited residual activity, which is the length of time that the active ingredient retains its pest-impacting ability. It is broad-spectrum in action, meaning that any insect contacted by the oil could be affected.Some horticultural oil products are also labeled as a low-risk fungicide, such as for the suppression of powdery mildew, rust, and sooty mold. ![]() It has multiple modes of action, such as smothering and repelling.
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